Day 1: From MN to AZ - Saturday, March 4th

One nice thing about being empty-nesters is that you can just pick up and go on a whim. We haven't really taken advantage of that in three and a half years other than quick trips to visit our kids. But we recently celebrated our 35th anniversary, my Spring Break was coming up, the winter has been long, and it seemed like a good time to get out of Duluth.

We looked at a number of options, such as Mount Vernon or Northern California, but in early March those places are not overly warm. We considered a trip to Cathy's dad's winter residence in Port Aransas, Texas, but the airfare was pretty high. We finally settled on a trip to Arizona to see the Grand Canyon, which I had seen as a boy and Cathy has never seen. And surely, it would be toasty warm in Arizona!

It didn't take long to put together an outline of a plan less than a week before we left. Airline tickets, airport parking, hotels, and research on recreational options were quickly completed. Before you know it, we were on the road to Minneapolis looking forward to five days of new sights and sensations. We knew that we were leaving Duluth right before a warm spell. Temperatures in Duluth were expected to be in the 50s, which is unseasonably, high, but hey - we were going to Arizona!

Our flights would take us first to Phoenix, and then to Flagstaff. Our first flight was on a plane that smelled and looked brand new. We were really impressed with American Airlines. There seemed to be more leg room than we were accustomed to, and every seat had a nice monitor on which you could watch movies or track the plane's progress across the states. It was even a clear day, so we got some really amazing views of the Rocky Mountains from Cathy's window seat. It was a foretaste of the vertical sights we would be experiencing every day in Arizona.

The plane to Flagstaff was much smaller, and for the first time since I was in El Salvador, I exited a plan down a stairway to a tarmac. We felt like the President and First Lady leaving Air Force One. When we set foot on the Flagstaff tarmac we got our first indicator that elevation has a significant impact on air temperatures. It had been in the mid-70s in Phoenix, but there was snow around the runway in Flagstaff and the temperature felt very Duluth-like. We learned that they recently had received 37 inches of snow in Flagstaff and temperatures had been hovering around the freezing mark. The elevation in Phoenix: 1086 feet. In Flagstaff: 6,909 feet. A rise in elevation of slightly more than a mile completely nullified our southern change in lattitude of 811 miles. So we put the jackets back on!

Flagstaff is a town of about 60,000 and to our surprise, it has an Uber presence. It's not quite as efficient as Boston, where you seem to never be more than a minute or two away from an Uber driver. We hailed a ride, and it took him about 20 minutes to get to us. He made up for his tardiness, however, by being an incredibly friendly and helpful driver. He advised us to be sure to make the drive to Sedona, a nice, scenic ride down the mountain to lower elevation, warmer temperatures. It's a touristy town with an abundance of hiking options. We liked the warm temperature idea the most and planned to make Sedona our first day's adventure.

The trip to our hotel was quick, and before we knew it, we were standing outside in Flagstaff, Arizona. Flagstaff seemed surprisingly like Duluth. The snow. The chill in the air. The small town atmosphere. Only one difference. There was an IHOP next door - a luxury we don't have in Duluth. So that's where we had supper.

We left Duluth at 9am and got settled in our room about 9pm. We were set back one hour in time and a few degrees in temperature, but our hopes were high for a real adventure in Sedona on Sunday.

Day 2: Sedona - Sunday, March 5th

After a quick continental breakfast in our hotel, we took another Uber back to the airport to get our rental car. We were fortunate to get a free upgrade and found ourselves cruising the streets of Flagstaff in a white Buick Lacrosse with leather seats and a backup camera. Sweet! By the way, it seems like there are a lot more white cars in Arizona than we are accustomed to in Duluth.

The Uber driver told us last night that he was from Sedona but was not going to take the scenic route home because in the dark you can't see fallen rocks so well. This was our first hint at what kind of ride this would be. We knew we'd be going down in elevation and that it was a scenic ride. We were not to be disappointed!

Flagstaff has lots of tall Ponderosa Pine trees. I couldn't help but notice all the large pine cones on the side of the road. Immediately my hunter-gatherer instincts kicked in and I started to think of all the great uses for these sizable cones. They could go on Christmas wreaths, be sold on Etsy, be used for fire starter (dipped in wax), and who knows what else? Plus they are free! And I had room in my luggage. So I collected at every stop. But I digress...

On the road to Sedona (Wow, my hair looks gray!
Must be the desert sun.)

Once we got out of town, the road began to descend. First gradually, and then steeper. It wasn't long before we were going around sharp curves and switchbacks surrounded by high cliffs and deep canyons. We were following Oak Creek and looking down the Oak Creek Canyon. The road was two lanes and often had no shoulder and even more interestingly, no guard rails in spots that really seemed to scream out for them. Or was that Cathy who was screaming? I'm not sure.

There were wide spots to pull off the road to take pictures, enjoy the scenery, and take a few deep breaths before continuing on.

Pictures and videos can't really do this ride justice, so suffice it to say that there were a couple times that I felt short of breath and a couple other times that I feigned a panic attack and Cathy came really close to grabbing the steering wheel. Why do I do these things to her? And she still wants to travel with me. The road looked like this and this and this.

Sedona - Nestled in the Mountains

The trip to Sedona was only 23 miles, but between stops, slow curves, and lots of gawking, it took nearly an hour to finish the trek. The temperature gradually increased as we assumed lower altitudes, until it was in the 50s in Sedona. Perfect weather for walking around town and taking a hike.

The bad news about Sedona is that it's a tourist trap. Not a gawdy tourist trap, but a more classy one. But a tourist trap nonetheless. It seems like every other shop is selling crystals and offering readings from a mystic or psychic of some sort. There were lots of people - even in early March - and you get the impression that the town has the capacity for many more.

Downtown Sedona

The good news about Sedona is that there are 300 miles of hiking trails in the area. More than enough to keep a tourist occupied who is interested in seeing some views. So we did some asking around and every person we talked to had a different idea about the best hike for someone who had only an afternoon in the area. We decided to take the advice of a park ranger-type lady who was hanging around in uniform as a sort of tourist consultant. She suggested Fay Canyon - it was supposed to be off the beaten path, less busy, a moderate hike, and a fantastic view. Perfect!

A Flat and Sandy Trail

She gave us directions on a map to a few potential places and off we went in our snazzy Buick Lacrosse. For some reason, we first went to the wrong place. It was a place she had marked on the map for some unknown reason, but it wasn't Fay Canyon. It turned out to be a gated gravel road that led us about 1/2 mile to a gravel pit and a dump truck. Not exactly what we were hoping to see. Plus it wasn't very scenic at all.

So we recalibrated our route and found our way to Fay Canyon. There were probably 30 cars in the parking lot, which was nearly full. Not exactly a low-traffic spot by my standards, but we were excited to take in the view. We didn't have to hike too far before we started to see why our ranger friend recommended this hike. The canyon walls were visible in the distance and quite impressive.

On the way to Fay Canyon

The path was sandy, sometimes rocky, and overall pretty flat. It was only about a mile to the canyon, so we had plenty of time to stop and enjoy the plant life (Juniper Bushes, Ponderosa Pines, Banana Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus) look at birds (Scrub Jay, Mountain Chickadee, Redtail Hawks), and say hi to fellow hikers. It wasn't long before we were close to the canyon walls.

At the End of the Fay Canyon Trail

The trail abruptly ended in the canyon among scattered boulders that you could climb to get closer to the walls. There were several other hikers there from England and the United States. It was fun to hear of their hiking adventures. One was kind enough to take a shot of both of us.

It was an easy hike and just enough to whet one's appetite for more of the 300 miles of local hiking trails. But we were hungry and it was getting late.

The cliffs of Fay Canyon

Lunch was at the Whole Foods Market in Sedona. This is the largest whole foods store I've ever seen and they had a great food bar with hot and cold selections. So we loaded up on all kinds of interesting foods with couscous, quinoa, farro, and the like. You get the impression that Sedona is a sort of yuppie, whole foods, crunchy granola sort of place. Just the thing for a couple of hipsters like us!

Surprisingly, the drive up the mountain seemed more nerve-wracking than the drive down. It seemed like some of the corners were suspended in mid-air over the Oak Creek Canyon. This experience was good practice at getting our vertigo under control for Monday, which would be our first day at the Grand Canyon.

Day 3: Grand Canyon, Part 1 - Monday, March 6th

I have now seen two of the seven natural wonders of the world. Did you know that one of them is the Northern Lights? And of course, another is the Grand Canyon. I was there as a young boy on a family vacation. I don't remember much, except that it was big, steep, and impressive. I also recall that my brothers scampered recklessly around the edge of The Canyon while I hung on to a tree about 6 feet away from the edge. I've never been crazy about heights. I get this queezy feeling in my lower gut.

Mather Point

Cathy had never seen the Grand Canyon before, so I was the expert - having been there over 45 years ago. The Canyon hadn't changed much, but the development around it sure had! There is now a large visitor center, they have paved trails (the South Rim Trail), and shuttle buses bring you to various points of interest and pass by every 10-15 minutes There are two maintained trails you can take to the bottom of The Canyon.

A Cold Morning at the Grand Canyon

We drove to a town called Tusayan (pronounced two-see-ann), which is only about six miles from the Grand Canyon, and spent our second night there. It was a quick morning drive, a $30 entry fee that's good for seven days, and we were in. The spot most people see first, right next to the visitor center, is Mather Point. It's an impressive promontory that gives you a nice 220 degree view of The Canyon. There are many words one can use to try to describe The Canyon. Immense. Huge. Overwhelming. Impressive. Massive. Gigantic. Immeasurable. Enormous. Ancient. And Grand. But it's also amazingly quiet. It seems like The Canyon just sucks up any noise around it. There weren't many people around early in the day, and The Canyon just sat there quietly being the most impressive river valley in the world. It seemed very confident in its awesomeness.

The Canyon is a mile deep, 275 miles long, and 10 miles across on the average. There are several layers of different colored rock. The far side of The Canyon looks so real that it looks fake. It seems like a water color painting or a computer-generated image. It's so distant, so colorful, and so still.

The Views and Altitude Make a Person Giddy!

Oh, and it was cold. The forecasted high in Duluth for Monday was 49 degrees. In The Canyon it was 38 degrees. And at times the wind was gusty enough to make a person wonder what the wind chill was. I wore a hat and gloves all day and Cathy was glad for her long underwear.

An Elk With Little Fear of People

We set off to walk the long part of the rim trail - almost 10 miles long. We were on the south side of The Canyon, which was the only part open to the public this time of year. The north side is 1000 feet higher in altitude, but for some reason, not as popular as the south side. The rim trail is paved, with helpful signs along the way. There are guard rails at some of the most popular points, but at others you have only your common sense to protect you. And not everyone seemed to have a good supply of common sense. We saw some not-so-closely supervised children and a few young adults that were just a tad cavalier in their respect for the edges of The Canyon and the law of gravity.

Some parts of the walk were through wooded areas, where we were able to experience some wildlife. The elk and mule deer seemed remarkably tame, probably from being fed by tourists who didn't pay attention to the rules. They approached us cautiously, most likely looking for a handout.

Along the way there are marked scenic points with guard rails and names like Maricopa Point, Hopi Point, Mojave Point, and my favorite: The Abyss. Each has its own unique and breathtaking view of The Canyon.

Toward the end of the western Rim Trail is the Bright Angel Trail, which leads to the bottom of The Canyon. We were warned by a ranger that the trail has some ice and shoe spikes (crampons) were recommended. There was a sign at the start reminding us of this. But I really wanted to hike at least part way down the trail, so Cathy and I agreed to part ways for about three hours. She would wander around the top of The Canyon and I'd venture toward the bottom and get as far as I could in my allotted time. We agreed to meet in a little over three hours at the start of the trail.

So, what's a little ice? I'm from northern Minnesota, right? And there were other people in tennis shoes going down and coming off the trail. I was sure I could navigate a trail with patches of ice, so I confidently embarked on my short adventure. After a couple switchbacks, the trail started to get more than just a tad icy. It was ice-covered. When the trail was in the sun, it was clear and dry. But shaded areas held on to their ice and snow just as they do in Minnesota. And I'm not crazy about heights anyway. Did I tell you that already? Other people seemed OK with the precarious conditions - and they confidently marched up and down the trail while I clung to the upward edge with every opportunity. But I was not to be discouraged by a little ice. Or a lot of ice.

Yep, That's Glare Ice On the Trail

I made it down past a couple more switchbacks and through a tunnel in the rocks when my heart jumped into my throat as quickly as a hiker would plummet to the bottom of the cliff I was standing on. The trail got steeper, the ice got slipperier, and the precipice on my right got deeper. I was feeling my heart race and my breathing become shorter. A ranger had warned us the conditions get WORSE as the day goes on because melting ice takes on a thin layer of water, making it even slipperier. Nope, this was the end of the trail for me. I didn't even have the presence of mind to take a picture. But USA Today was kind enough to report on the icy trails at the Grand Canyon and they provided this image for us.

So, I swallowed my pride and turned around. I saw a dad with two boys about 10 years old or so. Dad was walking close to the uphill side of the trail. The boys were scampering around on the edge of a precipice. He wasn't even close to them. I saw one of them slip and fall forward. I couldn't watch any more.

Working on our Selfie-Taking Skills

I was on the trail for a little over a half hour and I texted Cathy saying I was back. I considered just wandering around somewhere for three more hours and letting her think I had been bravely trekking on the trail this whole time. But she would have figured it out. So as always, honesty is the best policy.

We spent the afternoon exploring more of the South Rim Trail and it didn't disappoint us. There were remarkable views at every opening in the trees. In places we caught glimpses of the Colorado River, which looked like a tiny creek from that distance. But the river is 70 to 300 feet wide in The Canyon - a dark brown muddy ribbon of liquid sandpaper that has been carving away at the rocks for many, many years.

Here are a few facts about the Colorado River. As measured by the Flagstaff field office, it currently discharges 110,000 to 140,000 cubic feet of water per second (see the graph here). That's a lot of water, but as it flows west, we use the entire river to water our crops. The Colorado River never makes it to the Pacific Ocean because we suck it dry. All the lettuce and other greens eaten in the US in the winter months are grown in areas irrigated by the Colorado River. So, the next time you munch on some winter lettuce, realize the water you are consuming likely passed through the Grand Canyon.

The western Rim Trail ends at a place called Hermit's Rest. After walking over nine miles and soaking in the enormity of this amazing and ancient place, one cannot help but think of the greatness and unfathomable nature of God. It was fitting that another inspired visitor placed a plaque on a building displaying Psalm 68:4.

Sunset at Mather Point

Sunrises and sunsets are highly recommended at the Grand Canyon, so we decided to stay until 6:30 pm when the sun would set. We took the shuttle from the far west side back to the Visitor Center. At Mather Point there was a sizable gathering of people enjoying the sunset. They recommend certain locations for sunrises or sunsets and Mather Point was recommended for both. We didn't stay long. It was getting cold, we were tired, and it was crowded. Plus, we couldn't see the sun from our vantage point, but we could see the eastern walls of The Canyon bathed in reddish light, which was a nice touch. But we were in a hurry to get in the car, get warm, and rest up for tomorrow.

For dinner we had take-out from a nearby Mexican Restaurant. There were plenty of leftovers for Tuesday's dinner, which we tucked away in our fridge.

Day 4: Grand Canyon Part 2 and Walnut Canyon - Tuesday, March 7th

As we left the Grand Canyon on Monday, we were tired from fresh air and walking. We were uncertain if we'd come back on Tuesday. But a good night's sleep rejuvenated us and The Canyon was calling us back in the morning. We had walked the west side of the South Rim trail on Monday, and today the east side of the trail, shorter and less traveled, was our task.

After a quick breakfast at the biggest and busiest continental breakfast I've ever seen, we headed out for The Canyon again. The morning was noticeably warmer, and this time we didn't need a hat or mittens. The walk on the west side was more wooded, more remote, but still rewarded us with stunning views of The Canyon.

This was our third day of standing next to steep cliffs, and I noticed that the funny, queezy feeling I always get in my abdomen from high places was becoming less noticeable. Maybe I could get used to these situations and be a brave soul when encountering high places.

We spent the morning walking the east Rim Trail and enjoyed seeing the second trail that takes hikers to the bottom of the canyon - South Kaibab Trail. This one didn't look as icy as Bright Angel Trail, but it is apparently steeper and travels along more dramatic cliffs and ledges. I was envious of the excited folks donning their backpacks for a few days at the bottom of the canyon. Maybe some day...

San Francisco Peaks Viewed From a Rest Stop

Now it was time for the two-hour drive back to Flagstaff. We had taken I-40 and Highway 64 on our way to Tusayan, but we planned to take the more scenic route on Highway 180 on the way back to Flagstaff. This would lead us through the mountains that contain the San Francisco peaks, with Mt. Humphreys at elevation 12,670 feet, the highest point in Arizona. This snow-covered peak dominates the horizon in Flagstaff and that area contains the Snow Bowl, with its downhill skiing. We were told that the recent 37 inches of snow made for outstanding skiing at Snow Bowl. There's so much to do in the area! Just the San Francisco peaks area has 30 hiking trails, everything from easy to extreme. We only had time to appreciate the peaks from a rest stop.

Sinagua Homes on the Walls of Walnut Canyon

The number one thing to do in Flagstaff according to Trip Advisor is to visit the Walnut Canyon National Monument. We knew virtually nothing about this attraction, but we decided to make it our afternoon outing. It's only a few miles outside of Flagstaff, and totally worth the trip. This was our third canyon encounter in three days and probably the most educational. It's more than just a scenic hike. This part of the canyon contains homes from the Sinagua people who lived there until about A.D. 1250. Their homes were built into limestone ledges in the walls of the canyon. The natural geology provided a floor, a roof, and a back wall. They built the side walls and the front wall and door. What an amazing place to live!

Just a Few of the 240 Stairs on This Hike

The hike contains 240 stairs, so it's quite a descent to get down to the homes. The views are amazing and it's fascinating to look at walls that were built by the Sinagua people about a thousand years ago. There are 300 rooms in the area, 200 of which were probably for storage of food and water with the other 100 for living space.

These creative people grew corn, beans, and squash on the rim of the canyon, carried water up from Walnut Creek at the bottom of the canyon and also collected snow melt and rain. They hunted for game in the area. They were eventually forced out of the area for reasons unknown and probably merged with the Hopi people.

As a side note, I enjoyed the best look at a redtail hawk that I've ever seen. We were walking back up the canyon and a beautiful redtail soared through the canyon just below us. I had my binoculars just about everywhere we went, so I was able to get a really close look at this amazing raptor from above, with its red tail and other markings in plain view. Wow! One of the highlights of my trip!

I knew if I could lift this ledge just a bit, it
would allow more sunlight through.

There! That did it!

This rock had fallen on the path, and I moved it
out of the way so the fair maiden could pass.

Wow! What a full day! Walnut Canyon was an unexpected surprise. Truly worth a few hours on a balmy afternoon. It's educational, inspirational, and a good workout for the legs. Our activities for the trip were complete. Now it's back to the hotel to eat some leftovers, rest up, and prepare for the journey home.

One last thing. OK, so you may think we are really compatible travel partners. But things are not always as they seem. What happens when a cautious, reserved, super-careful person travels with a risk-taking, live-on-the-edge, adventurous person? These photos give you a hint.

How in the world did she get out there?

Yep, like always - living on the ege.

Ain't no way I'm going out there!

I take my eyes off her for just a second and look what happens.

She knows no fear.

It was a harrowing experience, but I survived. She probably gets bored because I'm always holding her back. I can't imagine what she'd do if I were not constantly warning her to be careful.

Day 5: The Journey Home - Wednesday, March 8th

We wondered if we should have stayed a day or two longer. There is so much to do in the area. Sedona has so many hiking trails, We didn't even try the trails in the San Francisco Peaks area. The Grand Canyon has much more to offer, like the Desert View area that we didn't even visit. Plus there is skiing, the meteor crater, an world-class observatory, and more. It's definitely worth another visit.

But there's also something about going back home. We like our life in Duluth and we were eager to get back to it. We would bring with us many unforgettable memories.

Had we flown out of Duluth we would have had the luxury of checking in at small airports in both directions. Small airports are so nice! Short lines, easy to find things. No navigating between terminals, concourses, gates, and all that. Flagstaff has one security checkpoint. When you are done with security, you are at their only "gate." This consists of a waiting area and a door to the tarmac, where you climb stairs to your plane. The ultimate in simplicity! We arrived almost three hours before our flight, but I really think 15 minutes would have been sufficient.

The trip home was mostly uneventful. On the flight from Phoenix to Minneapolis, there was a young woman with a child of about 1 year. This little girl was crying from the time we sat down until the plane took off. I thought it was going to be a long flight, but baby and mom slept most of the way to Minneapolis. But as soon as the plane was in the air, the guy behind us started snoring. I mean really snoring. Loud, obnoxious, gross, aggravating snoring. The entire flight. We spend most of the flight with our ears plugged, reading our books. Note to self: get a good set of over-the-ears headphones to bring on flights.

We parked at the airport, which was pretty nice. We had to take a tram and light rail to get back to our car, and we were on the road to Duluth. Home by 9pm, we got to bed at our normal time. This trip had no early mornings or late nights. Our flights were well-planned in that regard.

As a closing note, here are some of the great plants we saw in Arizona.

Banana Yucca

A Dead :Juniper Tree With Beautiful Grains

Prickly Pear Cactus

Juniper Tree

Scrub Jay in a Juniper Tree